Crafted this week, vol 3

This will be my last post before I go on my honeymoon. I managed to knock out a few more pieces to add to my travel wardrobe. 

First, I made a Dahlia dress, using version 2 of the pattern.

It has some fit issues. I moved the strap points in too much and the straps don't cover my bra straps well. Also the armholes gape a bit. For next time I will probably re-cut out the bodice pattern pieces and grade it from an 18 to a 20. It is a very comfy dress though and the fabric was a dream to work with. The chambray was another part of Gertie's fabric collection ( found here .)

My second makes were 2 more Bristol skirts.

I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with this pattern. I love the way the dress feels wearing it, but sewing the waistband always gives me issues. My first time sewing the pattern, I ended up with a waistband that was too small for the dress by 4 inches and had to take in the back seam. I had a similar issue this time with the black floral skirt. Also, following the instructions as written, trying to stretch and sew the waistband is very frustrating. For the white skirt, I did the following method:

1. Fold the waistband in half and baste it closed, leaving a 4 inch gap at the back seam.
2. Attach the waistband to the skirt, except for the section you left unsewn
3. Using the safety pin method, feed in the elastic and sew it together into a circle.
4. Enclose the elastic completely in the waistband, and sew your gap shut, attaching it to the dress at the same time.

Following these steps, the waistband fit perfectly and it was also a far less frustrating process.

Additionally, I added a lining to the skirt using the following steps:

1. Cut a second skirt from your lining fabric, omitting the pockets and the waistband.
2. Sew the lining together by sewing the center panel directly to the skirt panels.
3. After the outer skirt panels are all constructed, but before you attach the waistband, baste the lining to the outer skirt, wrong sides together. The lining will sit behind your pocket. When you attach the waistband, treat this all as one skirt piece.
4. Trim the hem about 1" shorter than the outer fabric and hem as usual.

The fabric sources for these skirts were as follows:  white version fabric and lining, black lawn version fabric.

The last piece I constructed was an Asaka Kimono by Named Clothing.

I had planned on making this after I got back, but decided I wanted something slinky to wear when lounging around the room. Probably not the best last minute project, but it feels so nice wearing it that I'm glad I did it anyways. Its made from poly charmeuse ( fabric here) which felt like I was sewing water for most of it. As a result, the collar and I had a disagreement, and since I didn't have any spare fabric this kimono is collarless. It likes to gape open at the top, but since I plan on wearing it over my pjs I'm not too concerned. I'll try this pattern again in the future, maybe springing for a true silk charmeuse next time.

And that's it, all my vacation sewing is done! I should have some nice sandy beach pictures next week :) Until next time, happy crafting everyone!

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Border Print Hazel

Work travel prevented me from doing much sewing this week, as well as getting a post in on time last Sunday. Look for a post later this week as a peace offering.

One thing I pride myself on is the ability to learn from my mistakes. The Colette Hazel pattern is one I've used three times now, and I think this is the first time I got it right. My straps were way off on my first attempt a couple of years ago. And the version I sewed last summer still had bust fitting issues. But, now armed with the knowledge I need to do a Low Bust Adjustment, this time it fits much better.

The fabric is a border print cotton sateen I picked up from Joann Fabric, part of the Gertie fabric collection. Confession: when I saw her fabric line, I snapped up a few yards of most of the patterns without much thought to what I would use it for (some impulse buy shoes, I buy fabric. It's a problem.) This fabric, however, I knew immediately I wanted to use to make a Hazel. I wasn't happy the first two times I tried the pattern, but I knew this fabric would make for a gorgeous version of the dress once I ironed out the final fit issues. My pattern pieces already had the FBA alterations I made a few years ago, so all I needed to do was shift the bust dart down a couple of inches and I was good to go.

I highly recommend this pattern to any of you busty girls like me out there. The straps are nice and wide to hide any bra straps that would show on a normal summery dress, and the princess seam on the front bodice is very forgiving. It is one of their older patterns though, so it only goes to a size 18, so bear that in mind.

My only real problem with the problem is the front facing. If you interface it, it looks really weird, and worse, feels uncomfortable lying against your chest. I ended up trimming it down to a half inch and then top-stitching it down the first couple of attempts on this pattern, but I didn't want any stitching along those beautiful roses in the front. I omitted the interfacing this time around, which helped, but the facing still kept rolling up half an inch above my bust line all day when I wore it. I plan on carefully catch stitching it down and will report back on how it works out. If anyone is reading this, and has any suggestions on how to fix this problem with the pattern, please let me know.

Next on my list: the Amy Butler Mini Dress.

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